La Sportiva.com - Skwama Otaki

Ned Feehaly flashes Trust Issues 8B+ in Rocklands
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23/07/2017
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Ned Feehaly publishes in Instagram that flashed yesterday Nalle Hukkataival's problem Trust Issues 8B+ at the Realm in Rocklands. Days ago Ned also did classic Amandla 8B+ too. (c) Shauna Coxsey

"Trust Issues - Rocklands. It's not very often you find a problem that suits you so well - heel hooks and huge lock offs on sloping holds. It's a total stunner of a line too.

A while ago I set myself the challenge to flash 8b. A few times I've been painfully close, but always managed to drop the ball when success seemed all but inevitable. While I still haven't flashed an 8b, I did flash this 8b+ instead... Thanks @alexandermegos and @dave_graham_ for the cheerleading and beta. And of course @nalle_hukkataival for putting this amazing line up!
"

5.10 Gambit

Verhoeven and Korenaga tie-break winners in World Games
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22/07/2017
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As in the last World Cup, the route setters had dufficulties seperating the finalists. All three female on the podium got to 39+ and the following two 39. Among the male, the qualification result had to separate the first two and #4 to 6 did also get the identical final scoring.

1. K Korenaga JPN - A Verhoeven BEL
2. Y Hada JPN - J Garnbret SLO
3. S McColl CAN - J Chanourdie FRA

Kalymnos paradise escapes from the earthquake
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22/07/2017
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Aris T, the topo producer, confirms that the earth quake that had it's epicentrum some 5 km from Kalymnos and badly hit Kos, did just have a very mild impact on Kalymnos.

"We have very often small quakes at Kaly. Without any problem though as this time. Just well shaken not stirred! I have some info for 1-2 falling stonew at Pescatore left and at Afternoon. Maybe it is just loose rock that already exists high above the routes and sometimes with heavy rain or now with earthquake."

Aris also says that there are some 200 climbers on the island and that they have been climbing on Secret Garden and Odyssey in 27 degrees and a nic breeze lately.

Alex Megos repeats Hukkataival's 8C in Rocklands
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21/07/2017
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Alex Megos comes with great news on Facebook with a great picture by Ken Etzel.

"What a battle! Sometimes things just take a while but when they happen it's even more rewarding! After 5 us of work I did the first repeat of "The Finnish Line" put up by @nalle_hukkataival a few weeks ago! Maybe the best line of all time?!"

In regards the grade, Hukkataival said it was a contender to be the hardest in Rocklands which has four 8C's.

5.10 Quantum

Andrea Cartas proposes 8c/8c+ FA in Rodellar
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21/07/2017
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Andrea Cartas publishes in her blog the FA of Der Fan Tutte 8c/8c+, a link up from Der des Ders 7c+ to Cossi Fan Tutte second pitch. She was very close to climb the original route but the first pitch tufa was completly soaked. (C) Carlos Padilla

"Now I will back to climb Cossi, cause I did Fan Tutte. We'll call this new link up "Der Fan Tutte" and I propose something easier than the original, cause I would like to be honest with myself and I want "Cossi" as my very first 8c+"

Stasa Gejo win World Games
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21/07/2017
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Stasa Gejo (19), #8 in the Boulder WC 2017, was last into the final but she had secured the victory before her opponents had tried the last boulder. As for the male, Japan had two finalists and it seems they are well ahead of the other countries as of 2017. Shauna Coxsey and Janja Garnbret did not participate. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

1. Stasa Gejo SRB 4t10 4b8
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 3t10 3b8
3. Fanny Gibert FRA 2t2 2b2
4. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3 2b3
5. Monika Retchy GER 1t6 2b7
6. Margo Hayes USA 0t 2b11
Complete results>

Ogata wins World Games Bouldering finals
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21/07/2017
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Excellent route setting and commentating in the World Games Bouldering. The only thing that was missing was a clock as well as the live-streaming changed to swimming when there were two climbers left. Yoshiyuki Ogata (19), currently #8 in the WC, had secured the victory already after he had done all the three first boulders. Surprisingly Jan Hojer, who has successfully been focusing on Lead during the summer, got the silver after having missed qualifying for the last ten Boulders WCs.

1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 4t9 4b6 (c) Eddie Fowke
2. Jan Hojer GER 3t6 3b4
3. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 2t3 4b8
4. Mickael Mawem FRA 2t4 4b7
5. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1t4 4b5
Updated results

22:30-23:00 Women's Bouldering Final (DELAYED)
23:30-24:00 Women's Bouldering Final - continued (DELAYED)

Saturday 22nd July: 22:30-23:00 Speed Finals (DELAYED)
23:30-24:00 Speed Finals - continued (DELAYED)

Monday 24th July: 01:00-03:00 Lead Finals (DELAYED)

Fixe Climbing Gear

Upgraded server means faster access to 8a
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20/07/2017
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Sorry for the downtime but now we have upgraded to a modern server with much higher capacity which means faster access to 8a. It might be that some things needs to be optimized but as it stands now the response time is more than double as fast :)

No major quake problems on Kalymnos
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20/07/2017
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With the epicenter some 60 km east of Kalymnos, a 6.7 magnitude quack stroke 00:30 friday night and from Kos reports two dead and hundreds injured. Many buildings on Kos, which was closer to the epicenter, were destroyed and also a tsunami hit the sourranding islands.

Aris T, the topo producer, reports that they wake up during the night and that there were some shakings for like 30 seconds. He has not heard about any problems on the island and he is going out climbing on Secret Garden and will give us further updates. It might be wise to pay attention for loose rock.

Beta site updates included bugs
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19/07/2017
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It's now possible to add new ascents using the beta site! We've added a quick-add option so it's easy to add new ascents when you're at the crag. Previously you can get all news, data base access and also driving directions to several thousand crags in the world. The bugs have also been fixed.

Read the full newsletter here

Check out the beta site

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