La Sportiva.com - Skwama Otaki

Live-streaming on Sunday from Edinburgh 10.30
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24/09/2017
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From the qualification results from the Lead World Cup in Edinburgh we can see that seven female and for male topped both routes. Here is the live-streaming schedule for Sunday.

10:30-13:00 Lead Semi-Finals (LIVE)
13:30-14:30 Speed Finals (LIVE)
17:30-18:30 Lead Finals (LIVE)

5.10 Gambit

7.38 by Hojer in Speed
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23/09/2017
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Jan Hojer did not make it to the semi in Lead but with 7.38 in Speed, he was #12 and will compete in the final. This is the fastest time a Lead or Boulder specialist have done. Sean McColl who has competed in Speed for many years is normally doing it on 8.50 seconds. Jan's personal best before this comp was 7.48.

8c+ by Jenya Kazbekova
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23/09/2017
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Jenya Kazbekova, Youth World Champion in 2010 who was #8 in Chamonix (Lead) and #13 in Munich (Bouldering) this year, has done her first 8c+ Güllich in Crimea. (c) Ilia Karpenko

"First time I tried it was ten days ago. This route was really hard for me, but it was my style of climbing. First part is vertical wall with very small crimps and after is overhang with few powerful moves. I think, I did it in 10 attempts.

In October I'm going to China on two World cups and after also in Slovenia. I hope, that I will have a chance to go on rocks after the season of comps. I would also like to try the Olympic format."


Her father Serik has won World Cups both in Lead and Bouldering and her mother Nataliya Perlova, has a silver and a bronze in Bouldering World Championships. Jenya did her first 8b+ when she was 13 years old so all together the Ukraine family is among the most successful climbing families in the world.

Adam Ondra - it takes a lot to do 9c
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20/09/2017
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Training Beta has made a great one hour interview with Adam Ondra focusing on what it takes to do 9c; Physical training, physiotherapist, relaxation, speed, kneebars with calf focus, diet, visualization and being happy. This just might the most in-depth training interview ever done with Adam.

5.10 Anasazi

Riverbed 8B by Alex Puccio
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20/09/2017
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Alex Puccio, who just have won Arco Rock Master and Adidas Rockstar, has done her 22nd 8B, Riverbed in Magic Wood. "Psyched! second day on it. Also got to watch Joel (Zerr) smash the boulder first try today! This place is so beautiful, psyched for more boulders in the forest!!! :)"

The 28 year old is #1 in the ranking game which she has been more or less for eight straight years in spite of some bad injuries. During her last 23 World Cups her worst result is #10 including taking the silver in the World Championship in 2014. (c) Joel Zerr

" I will be taking over @vertical.life.climbing Instagram today! I will be posting some pictures from our climbing day and I'll post a story of our day, make sure to check out @vertical.life.climbing Insta!!!"

8b again and again by Cathy Wagner (52)
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20/09/2017
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Cathy Wagner, who has done more than 600 8a and harder, has done two 8b's, Nelson Mandela and Paulololol in Verdon. Checking her scorecard we can see that she is at her peak with 11 routes 8a+ and harder the last 12 months. Cathy did her first 8a in 1994.

Here are some previous comments from the 52 year old how she has been able to keep up her level. "I warm up less and less. I have not the patience to deal with and it's an error. My best flash routes have been done completely cold. The few warm up I do it's tai-chi movements, I started lessons a year ago. It permits at the moment for me to keep moving my energy with softness and to focus about the moves of the route I'm trying when I'm at the ground."

8c+ in Flatanger by Paige Claassen
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19/09/2017
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Paige Claasen reports on Facebook that she has done Odin's Eye 8c+ in Flatanger, after some ten days of projecting. On the picture from Trainingbeta she is on the, "burly undercling sequence that I struggled to link even from the hang.

Paige, who was #14 in the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, has previously done Just do it 8c (+). So it seems she very well knows how to handle both 3D climbing as well wall climbing at crimpers. More info at her website

On her Instagram she has added, Now I can move on to my secondary project of trash cleanup around the crag - the global climbing community should be embarrassed by all the trash that is tucked beneath that talus field. We're all to blame, as it's easy to accidentally leave things behind, but c'mon folks. We can definitely do a better job to keep our crags trash free!

5.10 Quantum

9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra
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18/09/2017
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Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done a 9a+ FA in Flatanger, which starts from Thor's Hammer 1, 9a (+). The 80 meter link up makes for a new 9b+ project. ( c) Bernando Gimenez

On his way home, Adam stopped in Hell, a small village just located by Trondheim airport, where he did the FA of Hello 9a. In total the 24 year old, has now done 134 routes 9a and harder. The runner up, Alex Megos, has done almost half as many.

First 8c+ by Iuri Reusa (43)
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18/09/2017
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Iuri Reusa has done his first 8c+, L'extremacura plus in Gravere. On the picture is also his coach and his two sons, Michele (10) and Matteo (9), who have already done 7c+ respectively 7c on top rope. (c) Marco Guidotti

"I started to climb twenty years ago. After one year I was able to climb my first 8a. In the next years I climbed without regularity and without a specific training. Three years ago I started to climb more seriously because my sons had started to climb and mostly I started to train with the help of my brother, who is my personal coach. I think that my improvement was made possible also for the opening in my city of a beautiful climbing gym, Kuota, where I train often.

Last year I was able to climb my first 8c and after numerous 8b and 8b+ in a few attempts my coach recommended me to try to break my limits. After five days of attempts I was able to climb it. My goal for the future is try to send "TCT" a famous route in Gravere opened by Stefano Ghisolfi and graded 9a.

Lucas de Jesús: "We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020"
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17/09/2017
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University student (although candidate to firefighter if his diopters don't get increase), Lucas de Jesús is one of the young spanish crushers that send 9a's. After a successful summer in Rodellar, he answers some questions about his workday routine to send his first 9a. (C) Guillermo Domínguez

Looks like 2017 is your year, isn't it?
I think that 2017 is the more I have ever climbed. I moved to study in Huesca last september and since february I have been climbing 4-5 days per week. I almost stop with the gym just to be focused outdoors and climb everywhere around. During the summer I've been woriking in Rodellar and I could climb everytime I wasn't wornking.

Did you clearly think to climb a 9a when you started climbing of was it just 'accidental'?
I couldn't believe it. Two years ago I was still talking with my friends about 9a's as something out of our range. It was something big and I never had the courage to try once. This suited me and it was just be stubborn and persistent.

What about Olympics, do you fancy?
I love the idea about the climbing scene into the Olympics because it will bring many advantages to this sport, but the format is a mistake because in Speed there will be not seen anybody climbing that 15m wall in 6 seconds, and the same in Boulder and Lead. Can you imagine a non-disciplines athletic championships where a guy like Usain Bolt is out of the final cause he wasn't good in marathon? Maybe is excessive, but in many ways is the same.

And of course that I would like to go, but I think that I will watch it on TV.. I'm realist and I know it will not happen cause in Spain there are a lot of climbers with a level above mine and in addition they're focused on it. We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020."

Singing Rock Colt