La Sportiva.com - Skwama Otaki

Two 9a's by Adam Ondra
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16/11/2017
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Adam Ondra has done another two 9a's, the FA of Ci Sta in Arco and Mongo in Schleier Wasserfall. In the picture by Roland Hemetzberger you can see it was done in snowy conditions.

Overall, the 24 year old has now recorded 149 routes 9a to 9c in his scorecard that has been opened 2.1 million times. Alex has done 74 routes 9a and harder and is runner up on this list ahead of Ramon Julian Puigblanque (66) and Dani Andrada (65).

5.10 Quantum

Digital topo for Taragona (Siurana, Margalef etc.)
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16/11/2017
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Vertical-Life Climbing App recently integrated the Tarragona Climbs guidebook by Pete O’Donovan and Dani Andrada in its topo collection. This means that there is now a digital version of the famous climbing guide, which presents some of the major crags of Catalonia, among others Siurana and Margalef.

Tarragona is known to be a treasure trove for sport climbers and one of the most important sport climbing destinations in Europe. A very active climbing community has turned the area into a true climbing mekka for pros and for amateurs alike. The second edition of the guidebook by Pete O’Donovan and Dani Andrada contains more than 100 crags, which represent only part of the huge range of available sectors. However, the authors have taken their choice carefully and made sure to present the most worthwile areas.

The digital guidebook is now available in the Vertical-Life App, where climbers can purchased the full guidebook or smaller chapters. The printed guide will be out by the end of November.

Record big IFSC competition season 2018
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15/11/2017
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Based on the IFSC provisional calendar 2018 it seems there will be a record number of comps during 2018. In total the senior calendar includes seven Lead and Boulder World Cups plus the World Champion. For the juniors, there will be a total of ten Euro Youth Cups in Lead and Boulder, a World Champion and also Olympic Games.

At the same time there are more comps then ever, they are spread out more meaning more travel. For the guys focusing on Tokyo 2020, the schedule is so hectic that it will almost not be possible to do all Boulder and Lead events, without loosing some valuable training time.

Boulder
13/4 Meiringen - Switzerland
21/4 Moscow - Russia (Speed)
5/5 Chongqing - China (S)
12/5 Taian - China (S)
2/6 Tokyo - Japan
8/6 Vail - USA
18/8 Munich - Germany

Lead
6/7 Villars - Switzerland (S)
12/7 Chamonix - France (S)
20/7 Briancon - France
27/7 Arco - Italy (S)
29/9 Kranj - Slovenia
20/10 Wujiang - China (S)
27/10 Xiamen - China (S)

World Championships/Games
6-16/9 Innsbruck - Austria
7-19/7 Central Saanich - Canada: Youth
6-18/10 Buenos Aires - Argentina: Youth A

Moffatt and Klingler Mental Training
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14/11/2017
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Boreal Mutant

Is it counterproductive to train Speed before 2020?
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14/11/2017
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Although nobody agreed on the Combination format in the Olympics, many of the best have said they will go for it or have started trying the other disciplines. However, with the multiplication format it might be counter-productive to seriously train Speed before the qualifications are over.

Most likely, some 20 Speed specialist will try it out, as if you win the Speed and get lucky in Boulder, you just might make it to Tokyo. This means that the very best Speed climber, out of the regular guys focusing on Lead and Boulder, can only get #21 in Speed. On the other hand, training Speed and especially the leg muscles, will most certainly have some negative aspects on Boulder and especially Lead performance.

Here is the math showing that it might be counter-productive to seriously train Speed before the qualifications is over. The base of the analysis is that you drop (at least) one position in Lead and Boulder if you seriously train Speed.

21 (Speed) * 3 * 3 = 189, looses to 47 * 2 * 2 = 188
21 (Speed) * 2 * 5 = 210, looses to 52 * 1 * 4 = 208

Training Speed seriously to become #21 in the World Champion qualification should mean at least 5 hours a week. This will make you gain at least 2 - 4 kilos at the same time you will have less time for training Lead and Boulder as well as getting outdoors. In other words, the guys investing in serious Speed training will loose much more than just one position. This means that the "ordinary" results in the World Cup also will deteriorate and if you can not evolve yourself into an Olympic robot, your mental health and strength will be poor when the qualification starts.

In fact, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra just might have greater chances to win the golds by totally skipping any serious Speed training what so ever. First they will enjoy and have fun winning all the World Cups as many of their competitors will be weaker both physically as well as mentally.

The twist of this counter-productive claim is that in Tokyo, where all the Speed specialists that eat Lead and Boulderers as breakfast, have failed to make it. The #21 Speed guy would finally get turn on his investment winning Speed in the first round where 20 competes. Any how, if Ondra walks the Speed track in 20 seconds and then win Boulder and Speed, he will get an multiplicative score of 6 points. Even if the Speed winner remarkably gets #2 and #3 in Lead and Boulder, he is runner up overall.

1 (Speed) * 2 * 3 = 6, looses to 6 * 1 * 1 = 6 on count back

9b FA by Adam Ondra in Arco
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13/11/2017
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Adam Ondra publishes on his Instagram a new FA in Arco, One Slap 9b. First he climbed Stefano Ghisolfi's One Punch (9a+ suggested by him and more in the 9a+/9b range for Ondra) and then he added with local Mauro Mabboni one more bolt to make a harder route.

"After a while, I got to experience the moment when conditions are perfect, my mind is fully aware of it, that influence my state of mind, I climb free and confident, and I have the feeling of ease, flow and joy.
First, I ticked off One Punch in Arco, a great first ascent from @steghiso. He gave it 9a+, but 9a+/b is probably closer to reality. It took me a few days over the last months.
Then we added one more bolt and I made a first ascent of a harder start, calling it One Slap 9b. What a day!"

Schubert cheering up the crowd before topping out in Kranj
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12/11/2017
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Amazing moment in Kranj captured by the one and only Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing. Imagine how millions of spectators will get amazed by our sport in Tokyo when climbers cooperate together in isolation and with the crowd fighting for the gold. Do not miss the great interview, starting 55.45 where a smiling Jakob says it is about getting rid of the pressure and just enjoy what you are doing. Mental training at it's best to listen to Jakob!

Fixe Climbing Gear

Lead overall 2017
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11/11/2017
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1. Romain Desgranges 477 - Janja Garnbret 665
2. Stefano Ghisolfi 413 - Jain Kim 525
3. Keiichiro Korenaga 373 - Anak Verhoeven 444
4. Domen Skofic 325 - Jessica Pilz 374
5. Marcello Bombardi 289 - Julia Chanourdie 362
6. Jakob Schubert 265 - Mina Markovic 304
Complete results

Perfect show ends the 2017 season
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11/11/2017
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Janja Garnbret put on yet another amazing show winning her ninth World Cup victory in 2017 in Kranj. In total, she won six Lead World Cups and in the remaining two she was third. Jain Kim was second and secured her second position also overall. In total, she was Top-4 in all but one event. Molly Thompson-Smith set a new personal best and she is the without any doubt the biggest surprise on the female scene in 2017. Last year she was mainly doing Youth comps but never better than #7. Including in her preparation for Kranj, she did her first 8b+ in Raven Tor this week! (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

1. Jakob Schubert AUT - Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Alex Megos GER - Jain Kim KOR
3. Dmitrii Fakiroanov RUS - Molly Thompson-Smith GBR

Interesting Jakob, who has just done three Lead WCs in 2017, 1 - 3 - 1, explained that part of his success is that he has done less comps and did not feel any pressure. Further more he said he does not follow a strict training schedule. The same goes, in fact, also for the runner-up Megos who prior to Kranj, climbed eight days in a row and did just have time for one gym sessions before Kranj. For Dmitrii it was his first World Cup in 2017.

It should also be mentioned that the commentating with the experience competitions climbers did a great job including great interviews. Complete results

Kranj Final starts 17.00
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11/11/2017
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Boreal Mutant