La Sportiva.com - Skwama Otaki

Another 8B+ FA by Paul Robinson
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15/01/2018
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5.10 Gambit

Get better endurance by resting in the top jug
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14/01/2018
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Holding your arms above the head, as you are doing most of the time when you are climbing, improves the blood circulation. Once your are lowered down, your forearms are at risk to be flooded which will reduce the blood circulation.

In order to get better endurance and reduce the time until your next burn, you better stay at the top jug and rest for a minute. Make your partner take most of the load in the rope and shake out as normal. This will reduce the risk for the fore arm to get flooded and optimize the blood circulation.

If you fall, you could immediately grab the rope with straightened arm pretty hard and once you are at the ground, you can shake out by grabbing some jugs you can reach from the floor.

Jakob Schubert flashes Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+(8C)
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12/01/2018
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Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has flashed Chris Sharma’s Catalan Witness the Fitness in Cova del Ocell, giving it a personal, ”Low end” 8B+ grade instead of 8C. (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

During the last week Jabob also did Stoking the Fire 9b and Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya.

Previously, Daniel Woods has flashed an 8C, Entlinge which nowadays are considered a soft 8B+. Also Adam Ondra has flashed a boulder which in the beginning was considered 8C, Jade.

Which is the best crash pad - 2018?
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12/01/2018
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Fixe Climbing Gear

9b again by Stefano Ghisolfi
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11/01/2018
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Stefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9b the last 12 months, La Capalla in Siurana which Adam Ondra put up six years ago. Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana

Last year, the Italian was #2 in the World Cup after a steady progress in the ranking and as a matter of a fact, his scorecard shows the same up going trend. In the latest 9a and harder overall statistics, the 24 year old jumps to #4 and including his scorecard, he should be considered the second best sport climber in the world right now.

Interesting is also that he did win the Italian Speed Championship some years ago, and has been #6 in a Boulder WC, so Stefano is one of the contenders also for a medal in 2020.

8C FA by Tamás Zupán
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11/01/2018
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Tamás Zupán has done his third 8C, The Last Jedi in Remete-barlang. "About the name... I like star wars. And I hope I can find a new project until the next Star Wars film comes."

It was an old project close to the village where I live. It is a big roof. It is hard to climbing here because it is often wet. I tried for three years. I climbed a stand start version (the force awakens 8A+) last year. After I did a lot of training with weight vest on a big overhang. And now i managed to do it, so I'm very happy.

La Rambla 9a+ by Tomas Ravanal
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10/01/2018
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Thomas Ravanal has after some 25 sessions done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, video. In July 2016 he left Chile and has since been living in a van and also doing WCs with #14 as his best result.

"I have been climbing in Siurana for quite a long time, and after a did Estado Critico 9a, I only think of lL Rambla. I think the route suit me very good and I was working during two months . I did not climb every day and every session in La Rambla. I always tried to not give it so much importance until I realized it would be possible to climb it for me.

The last month I have been doing redpoint tries. For me it was a dream when i started climbing in 2005 with the video of Dani Andrada. Now I am 33 years old and I achieved one more dream and feeling like I am learning a whole new stile of climbing.

La Sportiva.com - Skwama Otaki

9a+ by Jakob Schubert in Santa Linya
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10/01/2018
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Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

In the 9a statistics, check in the right column below, Schubert is Top-8 where he also belongs to in the World Cup male hall of fame.

9a FA by Harry Edwards (17)
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10/01/2018
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R & I reports about Harry Edwards having done the FA of Frequency 9a in at East Clear Creek. The first time Harry made 8a news was when he was 12 years old when he did several 8b+ and 8c. Later he stopped climbing completely for almost two years focusing on group singing/dancing performances.

8A again for Oriane Bertone (12)
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09/01/2018
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Oriane Bertone has done her 16th 8A, Nutsa in Rocklands where she also flashed Tea Garden Roof 7C. The 12 year old did her first 8A when she was 9 years old and last year she did her first two 8B's.

In order to escape the summer heat in Rocklands they boulder until 08.30 and after 19.00. This morning at 10 am 35 degrees reaching up to 45 during the day. The latest news is that she is super close to send Golden shadow 8B+! Videos are coming up.

Singing Rock Colt